The Flashlight Junkie

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Baumgartens BAU42600 Squeeze LED Flashlight No Batteries Required Assorted $20.74 Easy Squeeze LED Flashlight does not run on batteries again. Pump the handle for bright LED light when you need it. Perfect for home office car camping trips and especially emergencies. Random color of red smoke blue or yellow will be shipped.

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Cute Cow 2-LED Squeeze-Press Battery-Free Dynamo Flashlight (Blue) $2.61 - Features 2 bright white LED emitters-Dual-mode power:hand pressing power generation, or powered by built-in emergency batteries- 2-mode switch: emergency power and hand generated power- Perfect novelty gadget gift for kids- 3 x AG10 batteries inside functions as emergency power source so that the flashlight can stay on continuously without the need to hand press for power generation- Comes with carrying strapSpecificationsDimensions: 3.94 in x 2.24 in x 1.65 inWeight: 2.82 oz

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Cute Piggy 2-LED Squeeze Powered Battery-Free Dynamo Flashlight (Pink) $2.69 - Features 2 bright white LED emitters- Hand pressed power generation mechanismSpecificationsDimensions: 3.94 in x 2.24 in x 1.65 inWeight: 3 oz

Cute Piggy 2-LED Squeeze Powered Battery-Free Dynamo Flashlight (Green) $2.69 - Features 2 bright white LED emitters- Hand pressed power generation mechanismSpecificationsDimensions: 3.94 in x 2.24 in x 1.65 inWeight: 3 oz

Cute Piggy 2-LED Squeeze Powered Battery-Free Dynamo Flashlight (Blue) $2.69 - Features 2 bright white LED emitters- Hand pressed power generation mechanismSpecificationsDimensions: 3.94 in x 2.24 in x 1.65 inWeight: 3 oz

Engine Repairs

Engine Running Hot or Overheating….

 

As you know, this is a broad area to discuss because of so many factors that can cause an Engine to Run hot or Overheat. Let's get started.

For this Article, we'll keep it to Freshwater Cooled Inboard, Inboard/Outboard gasoline engines…..but most of the information can also relate to Diesels.

Let's open the hatches and take a look….There are several components (parts) to the Cooling System.

 

1. Belts and Hoses

2. Saltwater thru-hull fitting

3. Saltwater pump (has rubber impeller)

4. Heat Exchanger (Freshwater cooling)

5. Engine Water pump (freshwater)

6. Thermostat

7. Antifreeze

 

Let's go over each component/part and see what can cause your Engine to Run hot or Overheat… It could be one thing that is causing the problem or a combination.

Belts and Hoses:

Sometimes it is as simple as adjusting your fan belts. One fan belt turns your Saltwater pump, another turns your Freshwater pump…one fan belt should not turn both. The fan belt should sit towards the top of the pulley groove, not sunken within it…a sign that the belt is worn and has used up it's useful life. Change any worn fan belt and adjust to tighten to manufacturers specs. It should have about a ½ inch of play when pushing down or up on the fan belt. With new and/or well adjusted fan belts, the pump pulley will now turn more efficiently with no slipping and pump more water through your engine.

Your Cooling System Hoses should not have any leaks or be bloated. They should feel firm so the flow of water in the hose is not deformed or restricted in anyway. Again this brings more volume of water throughout your Engine, cooling it down. Don't forget to check your hose clamps and tighten where necessary.

Note: Loose Fan Belts, distorted/bloated Hoses can cause water flow restrictions. At higher speeds and rpms, the Engine creates more heat and.additional cooling power is needed. If you have slipping fan belts and distorted hoses to lower cooling water flow, you can bet that your Temperature gauge is going to keep rising where you don't want it..

Saltwater thru-hull fitting:

Your Thru-hull Saltwater Intake of course should work. The ball valve should move easily and the hose should have a firm feel to it. If the sides squeezes in too easily, the Saltwater pump it goes to can collapse the hose to cut off water flow…even if it collapses part way, this restriction will affect your Engine cooling and keep your engine Temperature up. So make sure the hose is good. The Thru-hull fitting on the underside of the boat has a scoop with some grating on it to keep larger objects from getting sucked in. What I usually do if I have an Engine running hot or Overheating, is to test it out and clean it. On smaller boats, you can get underneath to clean the grating. If your Thru-hull fitting ball valve is working properly, I close the Seacock (Ball valve), remove the hose and open the Seacock to see the amount of flow…It should be a gusher (have your wooden plug close by for safety). If the amount of water coming in is questionable, I usually close the Seacock, attach a garden hose to it and turn it on. This is reverse pressure and will clean up that grate underneath somewhat…turn the Seacock on and off a few times to help blow off any growth on it.

Note: You have just checked the water flow thru the Thru-Hull fitting, (hopefully good flow)…checked the hose for firmness that goes to your Saltwater pump…Looking good!

Saltwater pump (has rubber impeller):

Now we get to the Saltwater pump that flows the saltwater to your Freshwater Heat Exchanger (cools your antifreeze). Check for any leakage externally. Now let's check your rubber impeller…I know you might have done it recently, but read on. Remove the rubber impeller and examine each rubber blade. It should have no cracks in it as you bend them one way then the other. There should be no splits anywhere either. You can compare it to a new one you have onboard….If you don't have a new spare impeller, it is cheap insurance if you do…The rubber impeller should not move separate to the metal center…it should be well attached. Back in the pump itself, there are two holes..one from your intake hose (thru-hull fitting) and one going to your Heat Exchanger. Look closely into those holes…some of your past impellers might have lost a blade and lodged in the hole or further down. Inspect carefully and remove any foreign pieces and use a garden hose to water jet anything else out…it would be good to have both hoses detached and make sure the Seacock is off. You also have a beveled piece of brass in the pump to squeeze the blades and create suction. Make sure it's there of course and that it is smooth. If it is torn up, it will do the same to your rubber impeller. Have a good gasket seal on your impeller cover plate (don't want to suck air) and add some grease to your Shaft grease cap. Make sure when you tighten the cap, grease is getting to the shaft. It will lubricate your Shaft and Shaft seal so you will not leak…If the leak persists out of the shaft, a new shaft seal may have to be installed.

Note: With good flow to and out of your Saltwater pump we're looking good.

Heat Exchanger (Freshwater cooling):

Your Heat Exchanger is generally tubular, having two separate areas within it. One area for the Saltwater, water flow and the other area for the Freshwater flow. The Freshwater (water/antifreeze mix) is hot from absorbing the heat within the engine. As the Freshwater flows thru the Heat Exchanger, the cool Saltwater picks up the Freshwater heat, cooling the Freshwater down so it is ready to go back thru the Engine to pick-up some more heat. The Saltwater that is now hot from the Freshwater flows out of the Heat Exchanger into the end of the Exhaust Manifold to cool the Real Hot Exhaust as it leaves the Engine into the exhaust hose to a muffler then overboard (Generally speaking)

Some seaweed can get caught up in here (Saltwater side) as well as eel grasses. You can remove the end caps to blow out or jet away any foreign matter. (the end caps generally only open the saltwater side, be sure) You can also disconnect the Saltwater hoses and back flush with a garden hose and clear it out that way. A good check for restriction of Saltwater flow is to disconnect the saltwater hose coming from the Heat Exchanger To the Exhaust manifold. Where the hose connects, rust seems to squeeze the hole shut. Being gentle, scribe out any loose rust and/or foreign matter that has lodged itself in this area. Easily blow or jet some water thru this area to make sure all is clear.

Note: Generally, all that happens in the Heat Exchanger is that things get caught up in it, restricting flow…all we want is to clear it up so the heat exchanged from the Freshwater to the Saltwater happens faster, cooling the Freshwater down even further. Remember to check that exhaust manifold connection…if the saltwater gets restricted there, it keeps your freshwater hotter…and we don't want that…we want it to flow thru unobstructed!

Note: With this area done correctly, your Freshwater should come out of the Heat Exchanger cooler so it can pick-up more engine heat, keeping your engine cooler.

Engine Water pump (freshwater):

Your Engine Water pump is usually an integral part of the engine. It bolts on and off, but still check around the gasket areas for leakage. There is really no serviceable parts and all this pump does is circulate the Freshwater (water/antifreeze mix) around the engine to pick-up heat. It goes back to the Heat exchanger to transfer the heat to the Saltwater, and then back around the engine again. There is a weep hole (small little hole) under and behind the water pump pulley. If you see this leaking at all, replace it. When the Engine is off, see if you can take a flashlight and find the weep hole… Sometimes there will be staining which tells you it does leak…change it, it will only get worse. Also, if the Engine Water pump is many years old, the metal impeller inside can be worn. This will slow down the movement of the Freshwater around the engine. It would be a good idea to change it…If it is that old, its' days are numbered.

Note: The Engine Water pump is a straight forward engine component. No water weeping from the hole, no water stains there, and the pump isn't that old…I think we're good here.

Thermostat:

Your Engine Thermostat is what regulates the Engine Temperature. You can get Thermostats at different temperatures, but get the one rated for your Engine.

An old Thermostat will be sluggish, causing the Engine temperature to usually stay high. A sticky Thermostat will cause Overheating. No Thermostat at all will cause the Engine to Run Hot or Overheat, because the water is passing thru to quickly to pick-up any heat. At idle it will be fine (but too cool), but at higher speeds and rpms, the water will be zooming thru…Too Fast. Get a good brand Thermostat installed, rated for the proper temperature and your set.

Note: With the right Thermostat, you can't go wrong. You want your Engine temperature to be regulated at the proper temperature.

Antifreeze: Here the proper mixture of water and Antifreeze is essential. This allows optimum capture of heat (a high transfer rate). Check the Engine Manufacturers specs.

*Final Note: There are other things that affect the Engine temperature such as Engine Ignition Timing, wrong Prop size, clogged or internally cracked Manifolds…etc. But going over these basics areas will either fix or help you narrow down your problem. Plus you get to learn more about your Engine Cooling System!

Happy Boating!

About the Author

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